Torque wrench and socket (I used a 9/16"), calibrated to 34ft.lbs. (As
recommended by Courtesy Nissan and some members)
A regular monkey wrench or set of pliers.
Your car ;)
15 minutes of your time.
Bubble meter (optional)
Step: 1 - Park your car on level ground. Use a bubble meter if you want to be
sure that your car is parallel with the horizon.
Step: 2 - Open your hood and awe at your engine bay. (Mine is dirty so i didn't
bother heheh). A lot of people would recommend you disconnect your battery at
this point even though you aren't dealing with anything electrical.
Step: 3 - Unbolt all six gold-colored bolts on the strut tower and set them
aside.
Step: 4 - Depending on your particular brand of FSTB the following step may not
apply or would have different ways of achieving the step. Grab hold of your FSTB
and unbolt the bar from the endplates. This will make it easier to install.
Step: 5 - Position the endplate on top of the strut tower and screw the bolts
back in. DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS POINT. Do the same with the opposite
endplate/strut tower.
Step: 6 - Evenly position the length of the screw on each side of the bar and
test position it in-between the endplates. Re-attach one end to the endplate and
do so with the opposite side. Make sure that your bar is vertically upright
(e.g. Directly above the manifold). However, you may tilt it slightly if
absolutely needed.
Note: For those with 2k2 Maxima's. Per Emax95's suggestion, you'll have
to turn
the end screws 1 or 2 times so that the overall bar length is longer rather
than
shorter. This will ensure that the bar will have a bit more clearance from the
manifold. Also be sure that you do not overextend the bar as you might have
clearance issues from the hood. The first time i did this i had the bar clear
the manifold almost by a hairline and hit the manifold under acceleration and/or
reverse runs.
Forward run = Rearward movement of the manifold
Reverse run = Forward movement of the manifold
Step: 7 - Once all screws/bolts are reattached, tighten the bolts on the
endplates using your torque wrench. Be sure to torque it at the right setting or
you'll risk damaging your strut tower/engine/hood/bar/car and your life. You've
been forewarned!
Step: 8 - Tighten the rest of the screws and bolts on the bar itself, including
the bar-endplate connectors. Reattach the part in Figure 5 below (I forgot how
it's called, so refresh my memory if you will) :)
Step: 9 - Review all connections and make sure they're tight and snug. Close
your hood and enjoy your new bar!
Posted by gtr_rider
on March 27 2007 12:40:50
4243 Reads ·
I have a 95 nissan maxima that is leaking anti-freeze during the 1st 5 minutes only. It appears to be dripping just about 12 inches to the right of the overflow bottle, near the thermostat housing.
