2-Remove center pillar

3-Remove rear seat

PART 2: Running a POWER wire through the firewall !!NO DRILLING REQUIRED!!
1-DISCONNECT BATTERY!!!!
2-Feed the 8-gauge POWER wire through the access hole in the Drivers' side fender.

In the picture just follow the black wire loom from center going to upper right corner. Your looking at the clutch master cylinder for a MT, but incase you have an auto it's next to the firewall by the Drivers' side strut tower.

3-Turn the wheels all the way to the left and remove the rear half of the fender liner and just fold it back out of the way. Pull the POWER wire from the engine bay taking up all possible slack. Make sure you leave enough slack in the engine bay to reach the battery (DO NOT CONNECT TO THE BATTERY!).

Firewall Grommet BEHIND Fender Liner

4-Use a sharp object to poke a hole through the firewall grommet. I used a STIFF piece of wire I taped to the end of the POWER wire, which helped feed it through.

5-Once through the grommet take up all the slack and make a service loop. In the picture this is the passenger compartment side after you pierce the grommet with the dash lower fairing removed.

6-Run the POWER wire along the drivers' side of car to the trunk ALONG with ANY OTHER WIRES such as the LC Remote wire and on/off switch control. I followed the wire loom and zip tied it every 6-8 inches.

PART 3: Tapping Speaker Level Inputs
Use BassLink Instructions' Figure 9 for non-BOSE using ONLY the REAR connector(violet, violet/black, green, green/black color wires)
Drivers' Side
POSITIVE
1-Splice the Nissan Light Green to BassLink connector Green.
NEGATIVE
2-Splice the Nissan Black w/Yellow Stripe to BassLink Green w/Black Stripe.

Passengers' Side
What's up with the braid? Some Japanese worker prides himself here! BTW, this causes you to have to CUT one of the wires, since there is NOT enough slack.
POSITIVE
3-Splice the Nissan Light Blue to BassLink Violet.
NEGATIVE
4-Splice the Nissan Pink to BassLink Violet w/Black Stripe.

PART 4: Mounting The BassLink To A Board In The Trunk

1-Draw the OUTER profile of the BassLink WITH LEGS on cardboard and cut it out. Use the profile of the cardboard model to determine the SIZE of board you'll need. I used some 3/4" Medium Density Particle Board from a previous project(MDF is probably the best choice).

2-Remove drivers' side part of trunk liner by unscrewing snaps.

Top Mount Bolt

3-Drill hole through the mount already provided by the liner for the Top Mounting point. Place a bolt with the head on the backside of the hole using a NEOPRENE washer at all metal on metal contact points. I placed a nut after the bolt exited the wall, another behind the mount to prevent bending it as I tightened everything snug, and the last one securing the board to the mount as seen in below.

Mounting L-Brackets For BOTTOM Support
4-Mark where to make the mounts by putting the board as close as possible to the side wall, mark the spots, and drilled holes through the floor. Secure the mounts with bolts/nuts.

!!NO NEED TO CUT THE MAT!! Schweeet!

Where to drill Top Mount Bolt Hole
5-Place the board against the L-brackets (side closest to the wall NOT the center of the trunk!) and hit the board against the Top Mount Bolt. Then remove the board and drill where the indentation is. Not pretty, but a simple effective locating trick.

6-Carpet the board with THIN non-rubber backed carpeting. My receipt said Ozite 72" Black AM12 for the carpet I bought. I had a friend carpet the board AFTER I had already predrilled all the holes, since it makes it easier to mark the board without the carpet in step 4. We got some black carpet from a wholesale carpet supplier which didn't match, but the backing side matched PERFECTLY! It cost around $5 for 1/2-yard, which is enough to do 2-3 boards. He then used a staple gun to secure 1/2 of the carpet to the board and trimmed the excess. Then he used some "3M Super 77" aerosol tact agent from Ace Hardware or Wal-Mart to coat the board. Once sprayed, he snugly pulled the carpet and stapled it. Finally, he trimmed the corners and glued them rather nicely. I AM SURE GLAD TO HAVE LET SOMEONE WHO HAD DONE THIS MANY TIMES BEFORE DO THIS STEP, OTHERWISE IT WOULD HAVE LOOKED NASTY!

6-Put the mounting legs AND rods on the BassLink, center it as best you can to the board, and secure the (4)mounting points. BEWARE of how high AND low you mount the BassLink on the board. Depending on YOUR boards' size, you make have trouble clearing the trunk lid swing arm. You want a small amount of room underneath, so you can slide the trunk mat under. Also, mount the bottom two legs away from where the (3)L-Brackets will go.

7-Remove the BassLink from the board by removing the rods and loosening ONLY the TOP two mounting screws ONLY enough to pivot them and allow the removal of the BassLink. You don't want to loosen the bottom two screws, since they won't be accessible once EVERYTHING is installed.

8-Replace the ENTIRE trunk wall liner MINUS the one snap where you placed the Top Mounting Bolt.

9-Mount the board (with mounting legs still attached) to the trunk wall. Drive drywall screws through the L-Brackets into the board for the bottom and tighten the Top Mounting Bolt securely.

10-Lay the BassLink on the floor of the trunk and plug in the POWER, GROUND, remote turn on/off lead, and LC bass volume controller wires.

11-Place the BassLink on to the lower two support legs, pivot the top two legs, and install all (4)support rods.

12-Flip the "SWITCH AUTO TURNON" to "OFF" if you use a ON/OFF toggle switch to turn on/off the BassLink. Otherwise, use "AUTO" for the BassLink to turn on Automatically whenever it receives a music input signal.

PART 5: Installing Remote LC Knob OPTIONAL
1-Remove dash lower facia trim if not already removed.
2-Disassemble the LC Remote housing by removing the (6)Phillips screws. The circuit board, knob, washer, and hex nut is all that you need.
3-Remove the two blanks from the dash lower fascia where the remote and on/off switch will be located.
4-Follow the BassLink LC instructions on drilling a 9/32" hole through one blank and how to secure it to the blank. HOWEVER, you'll need to trim the backside of the blank to clear the circuit board

PART 6: Installing On/Off Toggle Switch OPTIONAL
1-Purple to Switched +12V.
2-Green to Ground screw.
3-Yellow to BassLink turn on.

It should look the pictures below when done.

Remote LC knob (Bass adjustment knob) and On/Off toggle switch

Credit: Alex Moir