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300ZX TT Brake upgrade


Why Needed?: If you want braking power, especially if you are running boost or nitrous.

Price: Do a search on Part Trackers for the calipers. They should run around $200 for the pair. Drilled rotors, Stainless Steel lines, racing brake fluid and Axxis pads I got from GR Racing

Fitment Issues: Prior to installation of the rotors, you must MILL down the RADIUS of the rotors by 3mm- 4mm (I did 4mm). THIS MUST BE DONE in order for the rotors to fit. Also you need to have 17?+ Rims to clear the calipers in the middle of the rim (I needed a larger off set rim)

?Start by jacking your car on stands. Remove the wheel. Remove the stock caliper from the car. There are two bolts that hold it in place on the steering knuckle. They are two 17mm bolts. Remove the bottom bolt first. Now with a BUNGEE cord, loop one end to the top of your springs and the other end around a hole in the caliper. Remove the remaining bolt.

?Now that the stock caliper is free from the body, remove the stock rotor. This might be a bit tricky, due to the fact that the rotors might be rusty and have melded themselves onto the axle. Hammer the rotor off the car, rotating the whole thing and striking the rotor in equal distances, until the thing pops off. Use a rubber mallet if you are going to try to reuse or sell the rotors

?With the rotor off, you can now see that the dust shield is PRESSED onto the steering knuckle. Using tin snip or a die grinder cut and pry off the dust shield using the flat headed screw driver, chisel your way in between the dust cover and the CV joint. (don?t worry about messing it up, you won?t need it anymore, it will get in the way of the 300ZX setup) This takes some time and finesse

?Attach the 300ZX Rotor, which should already have been milled down 3mm from the radius, onto the studs. Put in place with a few lug nuts, tighten so that they are FIRM, and that the rotor has no LATERAL movement.

?Check for clearance of the rotor up against the lower control arm. (mine did not clear) Grind of the end of the control arm. Looking at the control arm, from the bottom with the rotor on you can see how much needs to be removed I had to remove more off of one side than the other. (don't forget to grind all around the bottom of the control arm and turn the wheel to check all of you clearances) You want about 1mm clearance all around the control arm. Paint the part you grind down(to prevent rust)

?Attach the 300ZX Caliper with the 17mm bolts that came with the calipers (you may have to use the ones that came off you car). Tighten it up. There should be 1-1.5mm clearance on the edges of the caliper with the rotor. Spin the axle to see that there is no scraping. IF NOT, then the rotors were not milled correctly and you have to get it cut down some more. (that is what I had to do, I did 3mm first and had to cut 1mm more)

?Pop the hood, and open up the Brake fluid cap. Now, with one person should change the lines while one person pours in the brake fluid into the reservoir so that it does not fall below the line. This might be messy. Attach the Stainless Steel lines to the 300ZX calipers. Remove the stock caliper, and remove the bungee cord. Then remove the brake line from the car and attach the new setup.

?Use the brake bleeder kit and bleed the brakes so that there is no air in the lines or use your friend to help bleed the brakes. (Please refer to your service manual or car care professional on how to bleed brakes).

?After the brakes have been bleed and the brake feels firm. Torque the bolts that hold the caliper to 60 FT-LB

?Repeat on other side.

?MAKE SURE the pedal feels FIRM and not spongy. If they are spongy RE-BLEED the brakes.

?Road test on a straight road with no cars! Go slow and brake. Slow. Brake. Then go for about a mile with this slow-medium speeds and soft-medium pressure in braking. Then pick up the speeds and press harder on the brake. The car should feel firm and the stopping distances should be shorter.


Finished Product: