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Cold Air Intake Installation


Available from Cattman Performance, manufactured by Place Racing.


  • Flathead screwdrivers- small, medium, and large.
  • Philips head screwdriver- medium and large.
  • Ratchet- 8, 10, 12mm sockets. Most bolts will be 10mm. Extensions needed- up to 10" may be desirable.
  • Pliers- regular and needle nose. Vise grips not required. Two sets handy.
  • Corded drill, 3.25 or 3.5" hole saw with appropriate shank.
  • Tape (to position the template).
  • Medium and large zip ties
  • Open ended wrench- 10 and 12mm.
  • Safety goggles.
  • Touch up paint.
  • Recommended- drape for car to protect the paint.
  • Recommended- shop vacuum to clean up metal shavings.
  • Recommended- flashlight.


Note that these are the tools we used to perform the install and make it easier.

Metric nuts, washes, and bolts. Optimal size is 6x20mm or 8x20mm, approximate.



First open your hood up so that you can obviously work on your intake system. Disconnect the battery, negative terminal first. Remove the battery tie downs. Remove the battery-it is heavy-and set it aside. You will need an open end wrench and a socket or pliers to disconnect the battery-bolt size is 8mm. The battery support tray and the battery acid tray are still in place. Note the hole to the lower right below the fuse box, that is one of the marking spots on the template for the hole. Some of the wire bundles will also be zip tired out of the way.

Remove the battery tray. The fuse box in front of the battery tray has 2 bolts holding it down, remove those and remove the fuse box. The battery tray itself is held on with 4 bolts. The third bolt is off of the tray to the bottom right-you can see it. 3 of the bolts for the battery tray are covered up, the 4th bolt is visible just off of the tray at the lower right (it is surrounded by a black plastic shroud. Battery acid tray removed, bolts visible.

Unclip the Four(4) Clips found around the corners of the top of the Air Box, unplug the connection on the firewall side of the Air box which connects to the Air Temperature Sensor. Move towards the MAF Sensor (Image2) and unplug the connection on the firewall side of the unit. Unscrew the bracket which holds both the MAF Sensor Plug and Air Temperature Sensor Plug to the Stock Air Box. With a pair of pliers squeeze the IACV Breather Line clamp together and pull it towards the center of the tube to give you the ability to remove the tube from the resonator box and remove the smaller line just to the left of it. You will notice on the left side (standing on driver side) of the resonator box there is another hose/clamp coming from the Crankcase. With your set of pliers move the clamp securing the host to the Resonator to the center of the tube and remove the tube from the resonator box. Using a 7mm socket loosen the T-Clamp securing the Accordion to the Throttle Body.

Move to the front of the engine bay, where the Ram Air section connects to the top of the grill. Using a 10mm socket remove the bolt that secures the upper duct to the lower duct. Once removed you can go ahead and pull the accordion from the Throttle Body, and then you can easily remove the entire assembly from accordion to the top of the air box. (Be very careful with this, you are going to need this later don't drop it, MAF Sensor).

Now that that is out of the way, you can remove the air filter if you haven't already done so and put it to the side. (You wont be needing that anymore). Now you just revealed three bolts in the bottom portion of the factory intake box which will need to be removed to take out that portion of the box. Once that is done you can pull it out completely. We did not remove our lower ram air scoop from the front of the engine bay, but you can do so by using a Philips screw driver on the two screws located at the front of the engine bay on the frame. If you hadn't done so already remove the two screws holding your Air Temperature sensor into the factory air box with a Philips screw driver. *97-99 Models you must remove the Air Temperature sensor which located underneath the arch in your lower ram air scoop from the front of the engine bay.*

Nice and Clean, eh?


Remove the fuse box on the right of the car. The bolts are somewhat concealed by the frame of the car. One one of the bolts holding the fuse box in, tucked under the lip of the frame (of the radiator support). There is also a ground bolt clearly exposed below it. You can unbolt that as well if you wish, it is easy to do.

With the stock air box and air intake tract removed, you can line up the template for drilling. Note that the fuse box on the side of the car is in the picture, it will be zip-tied out of the way. The two connectors in the picture-they clip directly into the side of the car. Removing them requires using a flat head screwdriver to pinch one end of the connector with a tooth on it, so you can pull the connector out. That is a long and painful process, but recommended for those who absolutely want to get everything out of the way. Note the hole inside the circle for the CAI, that hole should be off-center. Also note the cable wrap on the bottom left, it is pulled out of the way and zip tied securely. This is why removal of the connectors and the fuse box is important, so you can get that hole out of the area of the drilling.

Trace the hole of the template with a sharpie marker, remove the template and commence drilling. Drill the pilot hole, then switch over to high speed and a steady hand and cut the actual hole. Double check to make sure everything is lined up properly, wear eye protection, and go for it. Note that there are two holes in the piece you drill out. The hole slightly off-center is the hole there that comes with the car. The smaller hole that is on-center is the pilot hole for the hole saw. Also notice the gloves and face shield to protect our soft human flesh.

Shot of the hole. Note the hose for the fuse box and the fuse box zip-tied out of the way. Also note the position of the hole to the lower left of the CAI hole, and the one to the left of it. The hole to the right (the threaded hole for a bolt) is one of the holes that you used to line up the CAI template. Clean up the metal shavings. Paint the edge of the hole so no rust has a chance to develop.

Remove the MAF from the resonator. The screen goes towards the front. Note the rubber o-ring seal. Install the provided plastic liner over the edge of the hole you've cut for the CAI. You will need to cut the liner to fit. Test fit the CAI tubing. The tubing should bolt up with some adjustment-the pipe connectors used to join the pipes are fairly long and have plenty of adjustment. As rotating some of the CAI piping in the clamps is difficult, you may want to turn the MAF. The CAI tube will only stick down into the hole by a few inches. The CAI tube will only stick down into the hole by a few inches- if it sticks down further the filter will hit the wheel well liner. Also note the plastic trim for the hole to protect the CAI's finish. The CAI, bolted up to the MAF. Notice that the MAF is rotated down towards the back of the car a bit-rotating the red flange proved to be almost impossible, so we rotated the MAF instead- much easier.

The CAI tubing is scratched a bit-this CAI is the spray painted version, not the powder coat. Note that we have cut the zip ties holding the tubing w/wiring in it at this point.

Reattach the vacuum holes to the CAI. On the 97-99 models there will be vacuum holes and a plug for the ambient temperature sensor. Reconnect the MAF plug as well. Note that the large hose on the top of the CAI (to the right of the very small hose) does not plug straight in to the CAI. It is curved the wrong way when it mates with the stock air intake tract. The solution is very, very simple: rotate the hose 180 degrees, then you should only need to make one new bend for the hose to connect to the CAI!

Detach the lower plastic shield in the front of the car-it may help to detach the section acting as the wheel well cover as well. There will be one or two metal screws, one of them screwed in out the outside edge near the front of the wheel. The other screws are plastic, or the are simple plastic clips. It may help to rotate the front wheels to the right (as if the car was turning left) to get more clearance. It is sunk into a plastic clip-note the position of the clip for reattachment. Brush out any metal shavings. Install the K&N filter, using a flathead screwdriver to tighten it. Expect to find metal shavings collected by the plastic shield, dispose of those properly. You will probably be crawling on the ground and you do not want them embedded in your skin. Reinstall the lower plastic shield.

Reattach the battery tray and the fuse boxes. Cut any zip ties remaining. Reinstall the two connectors up above the right side fuse box (between the fuse box and the strut mount)-contrary to removing them, then should clip right in. Screw in the right side fuse box, if you have disconnected the ground, reinstall it as well. Tighten the CAI. You may wish to line up the screw adjustments for the clamps for aesthetics. Reinstall the battery and all other parts removed. Remember to connect the positive terminal first.

The CAI hole is very, very well concealed. You can see a hint of silver below the right side fuse box, mostly blocked by the tubing containing wires. Everything has been reinstalled except for the boost sensor. That was zip-tied out of the way to a hose near the battery.

Start the car up. Make sure there are no warning lights-especially the check engine light-and make sure everything is working properly.

Clean up-note that there will probably be metal shavings on the ground so be careful.

Take the car out for a spin and try it out. Upon return, make sure the CAI cone has not fallen off (rarely happens, but mistakes are possible!). Also pop the hood and make sure everything is in place-a clamp that you may have forgotten to remove could be a very bad thing should it interfere with the throttle cable or something.

Done! Finished!


Brian Won (