Infinity Basslink II Self Powered Sub Installation
This thread assumes the following:
1) Any installs you do are at you own risk
2) You know the correct way to remove body panels/trunk trim, etc.
3) You have a basic understanding of automotive electrical components, and the proper way to hook them up.
Let the Show begin!
OK, to me, especially when it comes to any amplifier installation, getting through the firewall almost always ends up being the most difficult part of the install. Older cars had removable plugs, etc. Today, it can be much more difficult to breach the firewall.
Well, in the MAX, I thought this might be a problem, until I found the main electrical harness for the entire car running through the firewall. ( It's located in the drivers fot well, up to the far left, beind the dash - If you remove the interior fuse panel cover, you can see where all the wiring leads) Once I located that, I was able to take an electrical snake (an old coat hanger will work too) and poke a hole through the rubber boot surrounding the main wiring. (Just take care while you are doing this not to damage any of the wires that are there) The boot is thick, so it will take some effort to poke through it, but it can be done.
Once this was complete, I located the end of the snake in the engine compartment. From here, I made the connections to the battery;
And mounted the fusable link to the decrotive plastic covering the front drivers side strut tower.
Then the Main Power Wire Simply gets run down the drivers side Electrical channel (Under the kick plate moulding, which simply pops off) all the way to the trunk.
For my install, all the other connections were made in the trunk, and were relatively simple. First, I removed all of the cosmetic trim in my trunk, so I could run wiring behind it. Next, I connected the remote turn on lead for my powered sub, to the remote turn on lead of the BOSE AMP. (This is the BLUE wire in this photo, NOT the GREEN one, which is a connection to the speakers - More on that in a moment.) The remote power lead is wrapped in a factory electrical tape that you will have to remove carefully! Refer to the service manual for location and color of factory remote turn on lead)
The next step was to make the Speaker Level Connections to my Line Lever Converter.
(And YES, that is a picture of the PATHETIC little magnet on one of the 6x9's) You make a splice at both the LEFT and RIGHT rear 6x9's to connect to the Line Level Converter.
There are a few things to note here about this process!
1) Check the service manual for the speaker polarity, as I don't recall which color wire is (+) and which is (-).
2) I used a SCHOSHE line level converter (pictured below)
The inputs go in the TOP, and outputs come out the BOTTOM (refer to manufacturer instructions) BUT FOR INSTALL IN THE '09 MAX YOU MUST SET THE SWITCH ON THE LEFT SIDE TO "COMMON GROUND" Otherwise your stock speakers will sound blown with any heavy bass output. I also PUT ELECTRICAL TAPE AROUND THE ENTIRE CONVERTER SO THE SWITCH COULDN'T GET FLIPED TO A DIFFERENT POSITION BY ACCIDENT!
As far as connections to the BOSE system go, thats it. You of course have to ground the amp/sub somewhere on the chassis, but just pick a good location (check for wiring/fuel/brake lines, etc before drilling) and use a self tapping bolt into the chassis.
The rest of the process is cosmetic. Replace all of the trunk lining components, Bring your wires to the final mounting spots, connect all the wires to the amp/sub per the instructions for your component, then mount your sub/amp. (Again, before drilling, check for wiring/fuel/brake lines, etc).
The finished install in my trunk looks like this!
As you can see the self powered sub has a very small footprint, so there is no loss of useful trunk space.
I hope this Thread helps anyone considering doing this themselves, and gives them an idea of where to start. The processes used here would be the same to connect an AMPLIFIER for an unpowered sub as well (Seperate AMP & BOX, instead of an ALL IN ONE solution like I have)