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Relocate your Battery




  • 25’ Battery Cable (#1, #1/0 or #2/0) red or black
  • (4) not insolated copper crimp-on cable connectors
  • (1) Battery Box
  • (2) Battery terminals with stud & wing nut,150, 12V circuit breaker
  • (2) Rubber grommets
  • Solder
  • Red electrical tape (if cable is black) black electrical tape
  • (18) Tie-wraps with screw-eyes
  • (24) Stainless-steel sheet metal screws
  • Silicone sealer
  • Scrap plywood
  • 1/2" piece of copper pipe
  • Scrap plastic


  • Jack
  • (4) Jack stands
  • Wire cutters (or hacksaw)
  • Butane torch
  • Center punch
  • Hammer
  • Electric drill & assorted drill bits
  • Screwdriver
  • Vice grips.

WARNING: These are JUST directions. I am NOT liable if you mess up your car. Use common sense when attempting this or ANY mod. Always use caution when it comes tools that use electricity. WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING!

Determine exactly where you want the battery box and where the cables will penetrate the trunk. Double and triple check your location TOP AND BOTTOM, you don’t want to drive screws or a drill bit through the gas tank or a brake line!

Jack the car up and place all four corners on jack stands. Disconnect the battery and remove the battery tray.

For routing the hot (positive) cable, start by installing one cable connector to the end of the cable. Strip back just enough insulation on the cable to fit in the connector. Place the connector, barrel up, in the jaws of vice-grip pliers. Heat the connector with a butane torch while feeding solder into the barrel. When the barrel is filled with melted solder, push the cable into the barrel and hold it steady until the solder cools. BE CAREFUL HERE, HOT SOLDER WILL OVERFLOW! Lay the connector flat and, using a hammer and punch, put one good indention in the barrel of the connector. If you bought black cable, wrap the completed connection with red tape — LET IT COOL FIRST, DUMMY.

Lay out the cable under the car with the fresh connection towards the front of the car. Starting about midway of the car on the driver’s side, route the cable with the brake lines towards the front. The brake lines are next to the front to rear body stiffener and have a ventilated plastic shield over them. This end of the cable will attach to the starter post where the factory cable is connected. Leave the factory cable connected to the starter (more on that later). Make sure the cable is clear of the drive axle.

Route the cable towards the rear of the car and over the rear axle. Attach the cable to the body with tie-wraps every few feet. At the rear of the car, route cable on the body just inside the rear bumper cover to the location where it will penetrate the trunk floor. Drill two holes in the trunk floor to fit the rubber grommets. MAKE SURE THE OTHER SIDE IS FREE OF OBSTRUCTIONS! Run the cable through the grommet (make sure you go through the correct hole, look at your battery), leave a couple of feet of slack and cut.

For the ground (negative) cable, install a connector on one end of the unused wire and attach it to the chassis of the car just below the hole entering the trunk. If you purchased red cable, wrap the end with black electrical tape. Route the loose end through the rubber grommet into the trunk, leave a couple of feet of slack and cut.

If you are installing the battery in the location I did, you will need to level the mounting surface. That’s what the scrap plywood is for. Mount the battery box and determine the final lengths on the cables. Install connectors on the cables. CAUTION: YOU WILL BE WORKING WITH FIRE INSIDE YOUR TRUNK — MOVE THE BATTERY, TRUNK MAT AND ANY OTHER COMBUSTIBLES! Mark the cables with electrical tape as necessary.

To mount the circuit breaker to the battery terminal, make a bus bar by heating a piece of copper pipe then flatten it with a hammer. Heat again and fold in half length-wise.

Under the hood, wrap the factory cable ends with black electrical tape. As added protection against short circuits, glue a piece of scrap plastic to the vertical sheet metal panel just below the battery tray shelf. Use tie-wraps to bundle the factory cables together and anchor to the vertical sheet metal panel.