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Replacing Fuel Injector

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Disclaimer

By following guidelines in this write-up you assume full responsibility for the work you do on your car and/or if you mess up your car in the process. Do not do this unless you know what you are doing!

P.S. I apologize for image quality. I don't have a digital cam, all images were done with camcorder.

Let's do it!!

It's fairly not difficult to identify if your injector went dead. Three basic ways is to check resistance, swap coil packs and see if same cylinder is still misfiring or simply by sound (bad injector won't be clicking (injecting fuel into cylinder).

To do this job you need the following parts:

Fuel Injector: part # C1000-39011
Lower and Upper O-rings.
- I ordered my parts from www.thepartsbin.com

...And some set of tools, like this one (kitchen knifes won't do :)

-Vice Grips
-Philips Screw Driver
-New Injector (and upper and lower O-rings)

Recommended: Hammer, Flat Head Screwdriver, Patience, Yes - you will need a lot of patience here, so be ready. The job can take about three hours to complete!

Since injector in cylinder 1 went bad (circled on image) I decided just to do necessary job in order to move Intake Manifold to the side enough to be able to reach injector. Therefore, unlike what Haynes says, it was not necessary to disconnect the following:
- TB coolant hose
- PCV Valve hose
- Crankcase breather hose

Few tips before you start: mark all hoses and plugs with stickers if you doubt you going to remember where goes what and screw the bolts or nuts back into place for same reason.

1. Get the fuel pump fuse out and crank your car few times until it stalls and does not start anymore in order to relieve the fuel pressure (the fuses are located behind the plastic cover on the lower panel to the left from your steering column).

2. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

3. Remove Throttle Body (A), Acceleration and Cruise Cables (B), and unplug all connectors (C) that plug into throttle body, Idle Air Control Valve, coil packs on rear bank of cylinders and all other that go out of main wiring harness.

4. Disconnect power brake booster hose (D), and part marked with letter E (sorry, can't remember the right name for it). Remove the ignition coils.

5. Here is the hardest part that requires a lot of patience. You need to remove the support brackets bolts behind IM (marked with letter X). The access to them is very limited and you can only get in there a flat wrench (you are lucky if you have small hands). Since I was not able to get enough leverage to brake them loose, I put a screw driver on top and then hit it carefully few times with a hammer and they broke loose. After that it's just about patience to get them out.

Next you need to remove two bolts (letter Y) that connect EGR guide tube to the IM. Access to them is much! easier if you remove Idle Air Control Valve on TB (also gives you a chance to clean it).

After that remove the rest of 4 bolts that hold IM in the order as shown on previous picture.

Finally IM lifted up and you have full access to injector.

To be sure that it is bad indeed I checked one more time for resistance, since I have direct access to its pins. As you see, it is dead indeed.

6. You are few steps away from putting the new injector in but here I encountered the problem that made me postpone the job till the next afternoon!!! Screws that hold injector in place got a little soft from all those years of wear and that heat and one of them got rounded on me. What I did I went to Home Depot next day and got a thin metal drill and screw remover and after some time got that sucker out (you first drill about 3/4 of an inch deep hole in the screw and then put drill in reverse and drill the screw out with the screw remover). Attention: Do not forget to put some cloth or plastic over IM, you don't want all those metal shavings in your cylinders!!

My happiness was not long though, after playing with pliers and injector for half an hour and destroying its head I understood that unless I make something up I won't be able to yank it out - it sits way to firm in there.

7. Somehow I devised this simple model in order to get leverage on the injector. I found a pair of vise grips in uncle's tool box, then put one screwdriver on crankcase breather hose and another screwdriver I used as a lever to lift injector up. Finally, old injector out!!

8. I had only lower o-ring new so I took the upper o-ring from the old injector and put it on the new one. It still was in good shape.
EDIT: Almost year later I got a leak around that injector. My advise is use new O-rings and oil them when putting injector back in. So far no leaks.

9. New injector also won't go in that easy. What I did I put the screw driver handle down on injector and carefully hit it few times with a hammer.
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EDIT: Talked to some guys and they gave me great tip. Hammering injector up top may damage it. What works better is to put injector cap back on and screw the screws little by little on each side and press injector back in this way!
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Everything work out Nice! Then put cap back on with metal washer beneath the plastic one and certainly new screws!

Put all back together is the reverse order of installation. Again, gather as much patience as you can because putting back those support bracket bolts is not easy!
Tighten the IM front bolts in the reverse sequence of loosening order (look into Haynes for specs for your engine).
Do not forget about fuel pump fuse.

When I started my car, I was so damn happy, it just breathed so clean! No back firing, no nothing!!!

I hope this was helpful. Haynes Manual still is very useful, do not use this write up as a substitute unless you are familiar with your engine. I wish you good luck!!!!

P.S. Special thanks to guys from Maxima.org who gave me a hand when I was replacing my injector and had maaaany questions - Crazy4Maxima, d_warner, KMax2988, DaThrillr, ejj, Mecca, izzydig, Shift and other guys!!!

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