Sound Deadening for your 2009 Max
Tools you will need:
10 mm Socket wrench
Small headed flat head screwed driver
Drill with a Phillips head piece
Threshold for pain
Well I decided to sound deaden most of my 09' Maxima. I'm still in the works of doing so and will update when I can. So I'm here to tell you how to do things, what not to do and how not to screw up like I did. Lol.
I chose to go with Second skin "deamplifier". Second Skin is by far the best sound deadner around. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ I ordered 60 sf, but I need to order probably 20-30 more. When installing this I recommend wearing gloves, but here is the problem with that. Latex gloves are worthless as they stick to the backing of the sound deadening and make it more of a pain in the arse. Work gloves are also too bulky and you'll be taking them off all the time. I just had to tough it out and got about 50 cuts or so on my fingers, hands and wrists. Which was super.
First I did the trunk lid. All you have to do is pop off the lid cover. It's had a bunch of clip ons and 2 rubber knobs. The clips have four slots. You slip the screw driver in one of the slots and you pop up part of the clip then pull the rest out with your fingers. I went crazy on the lid and got almost every piece of metal on the lid. The lid feels 5-10 pounds heavier. I also did the license plate as well. Just cut out one piece to fit the whole plate and slap it on the back of the plate. You don't have to do the whole trunk lid, you can do only whats behind the carpeted lid piece and it will look neater. But I went crazy because I feel the lid is one part of the car that rattles the most. Great stuff would have came in hand here to seal up the cracks and hard to reach places, but I didn't think of that until I started the doors. Doh! Also you're going to think making holes for where the clips were is a good idea. Don't waste your time. You can the carpeted piece as a guide to where the holes are and just poke out the holes.
I've only done one so far but they are both the same. There is a bolt behind the door handle. You can pop off the clip easily with a the flat head. The bolt is machined on and a pain in the arse, but will come off. Next is the light at the bottom. You can actually pull this off with your hands actually. And then you just unclip the wiring with the flat head. It's very simple. Next you pop off the arms rest with your hands. Also very easy. Disconnect the windows electric with a flat head. And you will see two Phillips head screws. Then all its being held on with is clips. Pull on the bottom of the door and it will pop off then up on the whole panel when all the clips are out and the whole panel will come off. The panel well still be attached at the back by 3 Phillip head screws holding in the door handle. Unscrew these. The speaker is held in by 4 Phillips head screws and they're 6 1/2 speakers. I modified the speaker pod and placed a new speaker in it. I made the mistake of covering the whole door. Only cover where the panel goes. And do not cover over the holes that hold the clips or around them or the door won't go back on. Inside the door is a bar that stops the window and then a grove all the way at the bottom. I sprayed great stuff below the bar and in the groove. The focused the deadening on the inside of the door.
I learned my lesson with the rear doors. Front ones are a little more complicated to take off. Pop off the door light and disconnect. Pull up on the arm rest. You'll need a flat head to disconnect the front piece of the arm. Disconnect the window electrics with the flat head. The hand on the door has a screw behind it. So you'll need to pull off the carbon fiber piece with a the flat head. Start at the bottom. Remove the Phillips head screw at the top and the door where the arm rest was. It has a bolt behind the handle just like in the rear door. The corner piece on the door and the door panel are two different pieces. Pop off the corner piece with your hands then when you pop the door off the clips push up on the whole door panel and it will come off. The panel well still be attached at the back by 3 Phillip head screws holding in the door handle. Unscrew these. The front doors have 6x9 speakers held in by 4 Phillips head screws. Unlike the rear doors there is a solid metal piece cover most of the door. Make sure to only lay the deadener around the trace out of the door piece and make sure to not cover the clip holes at all.
The trunk was the worst. Pull out your maxima rug then you'll have a cardboard carpeted piece. Its attached behind the seats. Good luck on getting this out. I had to just cut it out because its behind a impossible to get to bolt. You can't tell it's been cut out. Then there is a styrofoam piece that is basically worthless. Then the emergency tray and then the tire. I don't think I need to explain how to remove these. There are a **** load of clips in the trunk hold all the carpeting in. I managed to them all off. There are 4 separate pieces. A plastic piece behind the license plate. You remove for clips. These clips are different. They have a little cut in the side of them. You put the flat in and pop it up. Takes some strength. When you get all four of these off just pull off and lift up. The carpeting has a couple of the same clips as well as the clips that are on the lid. Make sure you get all of these. There is also a carpeted piece under the rear speakers. A couple clips and it will come right off. I learned that Nissan has a complete hole in the bottom of the car for draining I assume. The vent is on the left side and the tire iron and jack are on the right. Do not cover the vent over! There are a lot of holes in the trunk. I filled the ones I knew that didn't seem to lead anywhere important with great stuff.