So upon installation of the kit, my car developed a small oil leak that turned worse as time passed. It started after installing the supercharger, so I tried everything possible. I replaced sandwich plate & fittings, feed line fitting and eventually after pulling the blower, I saw that it was not coming from the drain back tube or seal on the drain back nipple. The drain back tube was not kinked either.
So this is about 2 months of driving with the leaking seal...
Typically, the water pump will need to be removed due to the water pump failing or the water pump O-ring seals (2) failing with age. You may get coolant leaking from the weep hole toward the front of the engine with the inner seal failing. Some will warn that the use of silicate-containing antifreeze will ultimately cause injury to the water pump impeller. If your seals are the only faulty items, it is possible to order the two seals separately and to re-install the old pump. However, the water pump replacement is technically difficult owing to the limited space with which you have to w
Tavarish’s VQ35 Swap How to:
4th gen = 1995-99
5th gen = 2000-03
FSM = Factory Service Manual
00VI = 2000-01 Intake Manifold
This how-to depicts how I did the swap. I am by no means responsible for what you do to your car, and any ill effects are your responsibility. I take credit in writing this how-to, and please do not use it without the author’s permission.
4G- 1995-99 Maxima
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve
ECU- Engine Control Unit
FSM - Factory Service Manual
TB - Throttle Body
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator
UDP - Underdrive Pulley
The thermostat regulates the flow of coolant within the engine. At low coolant temps, it stays closed. As the engine warms, it opens to allow coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine.
It's located on the left side of the engine, here:
1. Go out to Advanced AutoParts (or any other local auto parts store) and pick up a generic cone filter. The one used here is the APC Intimidator.
2. Remove the top portion of your airbox. I recommend you not remove the bottom as it can keep your intake from falling off (as many people have had problems with).
Replacing a busted starter is actually simple, especially if you have already modified your intake system and have removed the bulky stock intake system. If not, well...you can still do it! Obviously, there'll be more work to do.
1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY The starter is directly connected to it! Do not do anything else until you have done this. The sparks show you cause will not be worth the injury to you or your car's electronics...
By following guidelines in this write-up you assume full responsibility for the work you do on your car and/or if you mess up your car in the process. Do not do this unless you know what you are doing!
P.S. I apologize for image quality. I don't have a digital cam, all images were done with camcorder.
Let's do it!!
Having suspected a rear main seal leak for some time and oil covering tranny case (although bad diff. bearings also to blame) and high oil consumption. I dropped the tranny to do a tranny swap and found that the rear main seal was definitely leaking. There was no clutch slippage and the clutch disc did not have evidence of contamination--I think the flywheel shielded it some.
Rear Main Seal Replacement
Flywheel removed (note oily residue all over):