Holy Lord this isn't an easy job. It only took me 45 minutes to drop the cross member and mounts, but getting everything back together took me nearly 2.5 hours. The problem is that nothing lines up perfectly. My bet is that the rubber in the mounts isn't formed perfectly so when you reinstall everything, things can be off by 1/8" which is enough to make this job a pita. I had everything in place except one bolt on the front mount where it connects to cross member (more on that later). Here are the tools it took me to get these SOB front and rear engine mounts in place:
Tools: 1/4" and 3/4" socket sets with extensions. Have a magnet antenna handy. Wear gloves when breaking bolts loose. Optional: vacuum gauge to measure manifold vacuum levels before and after (Should be 18-22inHg roughly, and identical before and after the install).
Stay Organized as there is a lot that comes off the manifold that will need to be replaced on the new VI. Keep bolts/gaskets/tools together in an organized fashion.
All that you will really need for this is:
1. The replacement knock sensor
2. 12mm wrench
6. Flat head screwdriver, or needle nosepliers (to remove harness clip)
Its a pain in the *** and you will most likely bleed, especially if you have large hands. It took me about 15-20 minutes to do. The hardest part is squeezing the little wrench in the crevice and trying to loosen the one bolt. Once its loose though, it shouldn't take you more then 5 minutes to put the new one in.
1. What you need.
I bought a universal hyper grounding system kit from Ebay.
I installed this kit today it took me about 30 minutes total. I have an Optima Yellow Top Dual Post Battery so I went to my local NAPA Auto Parts store and bought some screw in side post battery terminals. I put one of them on my "spare" negative battery terminal.
Why? So that one of the bends of the 2.5" charge pipe can be eliminated (the retarded chamfered elbow) and ease of configuration for those who want to upgrade to a 3" charge pipe system. Re-clocking the blower also gets the charge pipe away from the back of the headlight and allows a lot more room for those who do headlight retrofits. (My chamfered elbow was rubbing my OEM headlight bulb connection and causing it to flicker on and off)
If any of you with a manual tranny notice you have to fill up the clutch reservoir every few days, its probably because your slave cylinder hose has a slow sweat (common problem it seems). I changed it today in about an hour and a half (this writeup should get that down to half an hour). The hose itself costs around $40. I picked mine up at Cox Nissan (Bronx, NY), as they were one of the few who had it in stock. Here goes:
Tools needed - 10mm and 12mm wrench, 12mm socket. 1 - 2 bottles of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
DISCONNECT THE + and - TERMINALS OF THE BATTERY
Fixing/upgrading your fuel pump is actually quite easy. To prepare for this, get your fuel level low (ie less than a 1/4 tank) This way the pump won't be submerged in fuel when you work on it. Also, buy yourself a new o-ring seal for the tank access cover. Getting a new fuel strainer (if it doesn't come with the pump) would also be a good idea.